Fly sparging also requires an extra piece of equipment, the sparge arm. In general, batch sparging is less efficient than fly sparging. The difference ranges anywhere from none to over 10 percent, depending on factors. An average batch sparging setup can get anywhere from 70 to 85 percent efficiency on average.
A fly sparging setup is usually in the range of 80 to 95 percent. Brew in a bag is often much lower than both sparging methods. By not rinsing the grains, a lot of the extracted sugars stay behind. Once again, it is possible to match batch sparging efficiency with brew in a bag. In reality, you are far more likely to reach 60 to 75 percent efficiency with this method. This includes the wort left in the mash tun, absorbed by the grain, left in the lines, and evaporated during the boil.
This is very specific to your own setup. To account for brewhouse efficiency, you do calculations based on equipment and process. The mash efficiency above is still included in this efficiency as well. Most of these variables will not change based on your sparging method. The only change is the mash efficiency. There are two ways to calculate how much sparge water to add and what your batch size should be.
You can do the work by hand, subbing in any specific values you may have for your own brewhouse efficiency. Or you can use one of many online calculators. Online calculators use an estimate to determine some values. These can include how much water the grain will absorb and how much will evaporate in the boil. The most efficient way of batch sparging is to sparge with an equal amount of water that you mashed with. You then subtract the amount that the grain Alls.
All the batches should add up to the amount of water in the first runoff, or your original wort. In other words, the sparge water plus the first runoff should sum up to your pre-boil volume. The formula above assumes two batches. This is generally recommended as a good balance between efficiency and effort.
If you chose to do less or more, the rule of thumb remains: all batches combined should equal the volume of the runoff. This can get complicated when you include aspects such as grain absorption.
I prefer the rectangular ones. Remove the spigot from the cooler. Unscrew that and the spigot should pop right out. Remove the plastic insert from the hole in the minikeg bung and insert the bung into the spigot hole from the inside of the cooler. The beveled edge of the bung goes in first and the flange of the bung should end up flush with the cooler wall.
Cut off a 6-inch piece of the vinyl tubing and, from the inside of the cooler, insert it into the hole in the minikeg bung. Let a couple inches of tubing protrude from each side of the cooler. Cut the threaded fittings off the water supply line. Pull the tubing out from the braid, leaving you with a hollow length of hose braid. Flatten the last inch or so of one end of the braid.
Fold it over on itself 3 times to seal the end. Squeeze the fold with a pair of pliers to crimp it closed. Slip a hose clamp over the end of the braid, and slip the braid over the end of the vinyl tubing inside the cooler. Insert one end of the valve into the tubing on the outside of the cooler and secure it with a hose clamp. Slip another hose clamp over the end of the long piece of tubing, connect the tubing to the output side of the valve, and secure with the hose clamp. This is from a 8-gallon 30 L batch of altbier I brewed recently.
Remember that the method can be used with any brewing system or equipment. The things that you need to know to figure your water volumes are: Total grain weight, in this case, By knowing how much water you put in and how much wort you got out, you can easily figure your absorption.
Finally, we need to know our pre-boil volume — how much sweet wort you need to start with. For this batch, we want 10 gallons 38 L , which on my system will yield 8 gallons 30 L of post-boil wort.
Mash in with 6 gallons 23 L of water for 1. I use the pitcher to pour water from the 7 gallon 26 L kettle until the kettle is light enough to lift and pour the rest of the water in.
I predict that the grain will absorb 1. After 10 more minutes, I begin to recirculate the mash by draining into the pitcher. I only open the valve partially at first, then as the runoff clears I open it up fully. It's not quite that simple, I think you'll want to take a read through www. My train of thought was do you do mash around 1. My percentages were completely pulled out of my butt. Thank you for the explanation bwitt and thank you bradsul for the link to refresh my memory.
I'm sure it won't really sink in until I actually do it though and get the experience. You must log in or register to reply here. Similar threads. How long should it take to brew 5 gallons?
Replies 22 Views 10K. Aug 18, badmajon. How long should carbonation take? Replies 7 Views Apr 3, matt How long does the sparging process take? Replies 5 Views 26K. Aug 17, WildGingerBrewing. Replies 38 Views 2K. May 23, Black Island Brewer. How long will it take for hops to settle? Replies 3 Views 1K. Sep 17, how1. Life begins at Glad to know I haven't wasted a lot of time over the years! Good to know! I've been doing double-batch sparges and would stir in, let sit for 5 minutes, stir again and then drain.
So, eliminating the 5 minutes and second stir will cut about 15 minutes off the brew day. This will bring me really close to my target of 4hrs from first flame on to all cleaned up.
Quote from: pdbreen on December 11, , am.
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