My favourite Wheel is Hydrogen 84mm. The 80mm and the 90mm act differently, especially the 90mm which has much more traction and is harder to enter the slide. Regarding wheel size, especially if you are still learning, do not go more than 80mmmm. About the big wheel craze, I will write about this in the next article. Remember, most of the wheels when they are brand new, are harder to enter the slide, due to the smooth outer coating of the finished wheel.
So, if you have no patience, do some t-stops to wear them down a bit. However you could wear it in. Wear down the square lip until its round. Icy : The slide itself feels like you sliding on ice, hence the name. Not much control and common with harder duros. Buttery : Again pretty self explanatory. Buttery is the opposite, You have control over the side.
But also depends on the urethane. What the wheel is made out of. Harder wheels are easier to slide at low speeds. However as you progress try to move down the duro until around a. These are usually the butteriest slides. ALL these wheels are good for sliding. Simply pick a pair you like and follow the link.
Keep in mind, how icy you want the slide to be duro , whether you want to wear it in or not lip and also the size, IMO smaller wheels tend to slide better but depends how fat you are. October 9, Sliding is one of the best ways to slow down on your longboard at speeds above 30mph. I talk about which wheels in the market are best for learning how to slide and also mention a few you should avoid. A buying guide is also included.
Not all wheels are made the same. Some are built better than others and others are better for different uses. These features can make a wheel better for one use, but completely terrible for another. Read more about this below. This is the fifth in a series of articles and videos geared towards beginners. Check out the others here:.
By a radiused edge, I mean a wheel that has a round lip. This round lip allows the wheel to go from gripping to slipping with ease. For comparison sake, the wheel below has a square or sharp lip. This lip is shaped this way to increase the traction and grip of the wheel. When the wheel wants to go sideways and slide, the square lip pushes and digs in against the ground to resist this motion.
This makes the wheel gripper and harder to slide. It also allows you to take corners at high speeds with confidence. Wheels with square edges are typically not good options for learning to slide. You should stay away from them when you start out. For a practical demonstration of this effect, slide one finger sideways across a table or smooth surface.
Now slide all four of your fingers, you should feel like there is more resistance to this motion now. Wheels work in the same way. When they have a small contact patch, they tend to slide smoothly and easily. For example, take a look at the two wheels below. Can you guess which one is designed for sliding, and which for gripping corners? The Venom Magnums on the right are designed for going fast and carrying a lot of speed through corners.
Their wide contact patch allows them to provide a lot of grip and traction on road. Urethane is the material that a wheel is made from. It comes in a variety of formulas that make it good for different things. Some wheels have urethane that likes to resist sliding. They like to really grab the road when their wheels go sideways. This provides a lot of braking forces, and the wheels slow you down a lot.
The wheel can also feel a bit uncontrollable when you slide it. Some wheels have urethane likes to glide on top of the pavement.
This allows them to transition from gripping to slipping easily. It also allows the wheel to feel very controllable during the sliding motion. Usually, the wheel manufacturer will have a description of how the urethane will behave.
A post shared by Longboard Magazine longboardmagazine. Durometer is basically how hard the urethane of a given wheel is. It is typically measured on the shore scale. Most longboard wheels come with a durometer between 75a and 86a. Does durometer actually matter? Yes and no. Yes because when a wheel is harder, it tends to slide easier and smoother.
No, because some wheels can be extremely slidey despite being very soft. Or some wheels can be very low on the durometer scale, but will still be quite dense and slidey. In short, the slidey nature of a wheel is primarily dependant on the urethane. Wheels that are resistant to flat spotting are best for beginners. Wheels that are good at resisting flat-spotting tend to have denser urethane and sit further up on the durometer scale. However, it is best to ask other riders what they think of a wheels flat-spotting resistance.
Their big size gives them a lot of inertia, grip and raises the center of gravity of the board. They are basically harder to chuck sideways and they kind of want to do their own thing. It also serves to lighten up the wheel and stiffen the urethane to achieve faster acceleration and higher top speeds. So yeah, when a large core is paired with dense urethane, it makes for a dangerously beautiful combination. So with thanks to large cores, wheel companies can turn 74a wheels that would normally roll sluggishly on small cores, into fast rolling downhill machines thanks to the use of big cores.
As you will observe, any competitive downhill wheel has a big core. And this is the same with some of the best and most consistent freeride wheels too. Finally, because of how light they make wheels, some of the best dancing wheels have big cores too. There is nothing that annoys me more than going down a hill slowly because of a slow wheel. It just robs me of the pleasure of going fast.
Check out the image on the right to see some downhill wheels with large cores. Unlike big cores, small cores are cheap to manufacture and these wheels are cheaper in general to those with big cores. These wheels have more urethane and absorb more road vibration. They are in general more comfortable to skate than wheels with big cores. Wheels with big cores often feel stiff and often reflect back road vibration.
So yeah, wheels with small cores are great for skating slightly rougher roads. Wheels with small cores tend to be smaller at around 70mm in size. Any larger and they tend to feel sluggish and really heavy because of all the urethane. That said, not everyone wants to pay extra for a wheel with a big core. Wheels with small cores work decently and you will find them widely used by everyone.
However, if you are looking for maximum performance, big core wheels are the way to go. I personally really like my cruiser wheels with a small core for maximum comfortability and excellent vibration absorption. There are a few different positions and they basically affect how the wheel wears down and how it breaks traction. It may not matter too much for dancing either. Basically, the core is set dead center in the wheel. This shape allows for the most even wear as you wear down the wheel.
I personally like center set wheels. They feel perfect on my longboard and initiate sliding exactly when I want them to. They feel better to me to slide than side set or offset wheels. They also provide a distinct feeling between grip and slip which I really enjoy.
This is when the core is placed on the extreme edge of the wheel. The wheel is then mounted with the core closest to the hanger of the longboard truck. This core will produce the smoothest sliding wheel and will provide the smoothest grip to slip transition. Personally, I find these have a weird slide initiation. They require you to get to the edge of traction before they start slipping. I like a more abrupt grip to slip transition. That said, a lot of people enjoy sideset wheels quite a bit.
It is very much personal preference. Basically a happy middle between sideset and centerset. The offset core placement is the best of both worlds. Apparently, the grippiest wheels are offset as the best balance can be found with this core placement. Basically the opposite of sideset with the wheel core being placed closer to the truck nut on the axle. This design gives a wheel the harshest transition between grip and slip.
You are either gripping or slipping with no mellow in between. Finally, you can flip your sideset or offset wheel to get inset ones. This allows you to experiment and see what different core placements feel like. Apart from how they allow a wheel to wear down, I think core placement is not that important for advanced riders.
As long as your wheel fully fits under your board, you should be able to grip and slide effectively. It matters depending on what you want to use the wheel for. The taller a wheel , the higher top speed it will have but the harder it will be to get it moving slow acceleration. It will also have lots of momentum at that size and roll smoother over cracks, pebbles, and small rocks. If you go with a tall wheel, you will probably need risers to avoid wheelbite on your cruiser board or downhill skateboard.
In contrast, the smaller a wheel , the easier it will accelerate and the lighter it will be. However, it will not have a high top speed and it will be more prone to getting caught in cracks and stopping in pebbles. For an extreme example, consider longboard and skateboard wheels. Personally, when it comes to stand up slides I like wheels that are mm. This is because they have the longest life and will maintain a decent roll speed until they wear down to a size of 63mm.
That said, a lot of people enjoy a wheel that is between mm in height for freeriding. You definitely want a wheel that is less than 70mm. Smaller wheels are also usually lighter. You want something light so you can pull of tricks a lot easier.
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